Bonjour pomme de terre
November 30th, 2025 (by Steve)
Our story starts at the end of 2019. A young(er) Kiri and Steve sat dreaming about recreating part of our motorhome road trip around Europe but this time with two little ones. Over the following weeks a plan began to form of a mini road trip around France, seeking aires near playgrounds and child-friendly areas. By February 2020 we had a rough itinerary and we’d even booked our ferries and were beginning to think about campsites for summer 2020… but then there was this emerging virus, so we held fire.
Fast forward to 2025. The road trip still hadn’t happened and now we didn’t have a readily-accessible motorhome in the family. However, with the promise of wider family holiday in a gite near Bordeaux, we recognised the opportunity for fulfilling those dreams. And so that is how we found ourselves in summer 2025 with me explaining to our children that the following day we would be driving our nearly 20 year old car on the right in France. As I began to get into the intricacies of the “priorité à droite” rule, Kiri exclaimed that she’d never heard of this rule before and was it new… which is exactly what she’d said every time we talked about it 10 years ago. Ah, happy memories.

With passports created for all of the cuddly toys we were taking with us, our heavily laden trusty 2006 Toyatater Yaris trundled towards Portsmouth with camping stuff in the roofbox and not an inch of room to spare. It turned out there was nothing in the handbook covering how to change the speedo from mph to kph… but eventually we found out that you need to press the trip meter reset button for more than one second while the odometer is displayed… but the headlights must be turned off! Weird.
Once on the ferry soon after 11, we set up camp for a 6 hour crossing. We managed to exhaust the “entertainment” options (restaurant, bar and minimal outdoor space) on the boat that was smaller than expected, so we played a board game then ate our packed lunch at 1140. By 12 Kiri was saying she was bored, which I interpreted as “on board”… which was very true, so we got out some activity books for the kids and did some sketching and reading. However, the yaw, pitch and roll (slightly different from shake, rattle and roll) didn’t combine well with these close focus activities, so we took plenty of wanders outside.




At 1400, the screen came out for additional entertainment, as Kiri finished her overpriced coffee with a look that communicated both disdain at what she’d just drunk, yet also lament that it was now gone. By 1600 (5 hours in), we’d eaten all of the snacks we’d prepared and with a ham sandwich costing more than a shower on board, we were glad when the Le Havre Pilote arrived by helicopter to manouevre us into the harbour at 1615.

“Wow, France is so different” was the exclamation from our eldest as we returned to the car deck of the ferry (without actually being able to see any of France), but it certainly was different as we drove on the right the short distance to our Airbnb at Fontaine-la-Mallet. I surprised myself with a fully French conversation that I had with the owner where I managed to understand he was recommending a trip to Honfleur just 20 minutes away, and I was able to respond that I went there when I was 12! However, our stomachs were ready for food, so we re-heated the frozen meal we’d brought with us and cooked some pasta before heading out to Spar to grab some food for breakfast.
Despite a meltdown from our youngest at bedtime (in their defence it had been a very long day and it was way past their normal bedtime), Kiri and I managed a fraction of an evening as we shared a wee drop of wine and started to plan the journey to Paris the next day. We found a maze on the map… but we realised it was probably bedtime when the best answer I could give to the question of “where is it?” was “near France”.

Chocolate brioche was to provide the fuel to get us to Lidl the next morning where we stocked up on bread, cheese (kiri and boursin) and some veggie bits for lunch and dinner before hitting the route nationales / départementale as we weren’t in a rush. Well, not with the driving anyway. Just before lunch time one of kids without warning declared they needed the loo urgently… we spotted a place where a landrover had pulled off the road up ahead and followed it… only to alarmingly scrape the chassis of our car on the edge of the road. Deciding this was not the best place to stop, we hastily returned to the road and found a more appropriate spot a couple of kilometres further on. Noticing the car also seemed to be relieving itself of fluids with an intermittent drip, we opened the bonnet to identify the source… which fortunately was the air conditioning. Panic over. 20 minutes later we found a lovely spot by a river to have lunch on a bench where we introduced the kids to the cheesy version of their Mum, whilst realising that without a fridge, we had a lot of boursin to consume!

Now reeking of garlic, we swapped drivers and headed down the very straight D6014 towards Paris, stopping at a maize maze for some added entertainment in the form of getting lost, interspersed with some wooden games. If there had been more time, we would have done the whole thing, but as there was an option half way around to stop and we had a campsite to get to, we ducked out.




It turns out the maze had prepared us well for getting lost slightly in Paris on the way to the campsite – first we missed a turning, then there was a height restriction that would have removed our roof box, so we saw one bit of road at least 3 times from different directions, but eventually we got to the campsite.


If we’d had a motorhome with supplies on board, this would have been a brilliant location. However our pitch was essentially plastic matting, so pitching a tent wasn’t the easiest. And we’d read there was a supermarket on site, so we’d hoped we could get some meat for tea there… well the options were salami or sausage… and the beers were Heineken or Kronenburg. We bought cheese and tried to pay for it by card… only to be told there was a 10 Euro card limit. We hadn’t got cash out by then, so unfortunately we were forced to buy a bottle of wine if we wanted cheese.

After roughly pitching our tent and cooking some dinner the kids headed off to the play area and soon made friends with another family. As we chatted to their parents, it turned out neither party had been given full details on check-in – they’d been given details of timetables and travel for getting into the city that we hadn’t, and we’d been given the gate code that gave access to the river which they hadn’t. We swapped knowledge! As the light faded we had a quiet stroll by the river, got the kids down and then had some wine, accompanied by city traffic noise.
The traffic noise didn’t abate during the night, and for an hour around 1am there was even more noise as a motorhome arrived on the pitch next to us. Once ready for the day, we headed to reception to get the full details of travel passes for Paris – we were told to buy a travel pass at the train station, but that the bus to the train station only took cash. Oh. Very kindly, the friends we’d made the previous day were at the campsite bus stop and offered to buy us the bus tickets… however in the end it turned out the shuttle bus to the station was free. Once at the train station we bought our Navigo passes and introduced the kids to the concept of a double decker train.

And then we were in the heart of Paris. Now for those of you who followed our travels around Europe (before “van life” was a thing), you’ll know that we don’t like looking like tourists, so will much rather get lost in a large city than stop to get out a map. We arrived at Châtelet–Les Halles station, not knowing at the time that this is the largest underground station in the world and were faced with having to choose which of the many exits to take. We knew Notre Dame was south, so, using the sun as our guide (once we’d chosen a random exit), we strode confidently roughly towards the sun, but a bit to the right… in totally the wrong direction. However, as with most of our other experiences of getting lost, we found something beautiful – exciting, creative, arty fountains outside the Pompidou centre.



From there we meandered towards the river, captivated by street art and fine patisseries in windows. And then we were at Notre Dame with all of its rebuilt splendour. Cities with kids are slightly different than cities as a couple, so we decided not to queue to go in, but instead enjoy its grandeur from the outside, before moving onto the next thing – lunch in a bouillon.





We like to try to eat like locals wherever we go, and a bouillon with its no nonsense menu of hearty food and shared tables sounded like it would be an experience. Inside, the decor was ornate and elaborate with a back-lit stained glass ceiling, however the no-nonsense approach extended to the staff, who took one look at us and gave us the English menus (obviously for efficiency). We won’t mention that our youngest spotted a silhouette of a mouse running across the glass ceiling, but instead will focus on the lovely food, the intriguing way of taking our order (waiter writing on the paper tablecloth) and the bustle of mainly locals around us. 4 full stomachs for 56 Euros.


With just the one day in Paris, the Eiffel Tower was calling us and we had pre-booked tickets to go to the second floor. The children dealt with the queuing brilliantly and soon we were being whisked high into the sky by the lift. We avoided the gift shop up there (noting that the same souvenir that we’d bought for 4 Euros earlier to break a 50 Euro note was 9 Euros up here) and Kiri rebelled against the safety signs, but we loved the view.








Having had enough of queuing for one day we chose to take the stairs back down to the ground, eventually emerging with legs of jelly. With limited time remaining, we had a family conflab to decide whether we’d head for Montematre or whether we’d be best served returning to the campsite via an icecream. The former could have also involved icecream, but the latter option was chosen and, after again some poor navigation on my part, everyone was satisfied. Nearby was a G20 supermarket where we stocked up on supplies for that evening and breakfast the following morning, trying to ignore the fact that the wine we’d bought at the campsite for 9 Euros the previous evening was available here for just under 3 Euros. With baguettes sticking out of our backpacks we hopped on a bus to take us via the Arc de Triomphe on our way home.

We have to thank the kind folk of Paris who we may have confused on public transport that day. Our youngest was keen to try out all of the French they knew… so alternated between greeting strangers with “Bonjour pomme de terre” and announcing “je suis une banane”. It’s a great way to break the ice and start a conversation, however my limited French couldn’t always explain why those phrases had been uttered. So thank you Parisians for your understanding.
We were back at the campsite by 1830 where we tucked into a quick dinner, tucked the kids in to bed and then tucked into some Belgian beer (sorry France) as the light faded, nervously looking at the weather forecast for the following morning.
And what a morning. We were woken by rain at 0430 – hopefully just a passing shower? Hmmm, maybe not. So we made a plan. Get stuff out of the car into the tent, with the kids in the car. We then make sense of our gear, then load everything back into the car. But first coffee. So the kids sat in the tent eating their breakfast. I boiled the kettle, trying to shelter under our open boot. The drizzle got heavier. Proper rain. Then heavy rain. Then torrential rain. The things in the boot started to get wet. The folk in the tent started to get wet as puddles formed on the plastic matting we’d pitched on. I gave up on trying to stay dry. After a blur of sogginess, somehow everyone had been fed and all of our things had been packed away, soaking wet into the car. And then the rain stopped. At which point another British family nearby emerged from their tent, packed up in the dry and moved on. We felt silently judged by the German family on the pitch next to us (not that we stereotype).


Once on the road, we crawled around the Paris ring road in further showers and eventually made it onto the autoroute. After 3 stops in quick succession (we believe boredom in the car had led to over-hydration), we relented and had an early lunch before once more returning to the highway, flying at speeds that our trusty Bertha (RIP – 1990 to 2020) could only have dreamed of. Our destination was a campsite in Montreuil Bellay, but first to Lidl. Alas, the points of interest on the satnav that we used 10 years ago were out of date and there was no longer a Lidl, however we found a HyperU, where the most French thing ever happened.

Almost like a scene from a French textbook, we were at the checkout, when the lady behind me abruptly announced “J’ai perdu ma courgette”. Her companion uttered “Ooh la la”. I glanced to the floor, found the offending article, picked it up and handed it back saying “Voila”. In that moment of pure poetry I forgot all of the wet things in our car and savoured the joy of the scene.
Anyway, we couldn’t hang about. We had rain due at 1700 (it was now 1630) and we didn’t want to pitch the tent in the rain. So we arrived at the campsite, pitched the tent and prayed. Guess what – it didn’t rain at all. The only issue we had was getting tent pegs into rock hard ground – by the time we settled down for our sausage and tomato pasta one-pan dinner, most of our things had dried out. In celebration we let our dinner settle down, then headed to the pool for 45 minutes or so. This was much more our kind of campsite – quiet and chilled, and after a brief wander by the river and a glance at the chateau we got the kids to bed. As we were in the Loire Valley famed for its wine, we did what anyone would have done… and finished the remaining bottles of Belgian beer as the kids slept.



It was a joy to be striking camp in the sun and warmth the following morning. After a breakfast of croissant and pain au chocolat, we packed everything away and made sense of the car. We kept our swimming stuff handy and were in the pool for a final swim when it opened at 10:30. My parents hadn’t believed me the previous night when I’d informed them that swimming shorts were banned in the pool so I’d had to wear fitted trunks… and as I forgot to take a photo of the sign, they probably still don’t believe me!
We popped back to HyperU to grab bread and ham for lunch later and fill up with cheap fuel and then headed south past fields of sunflowers and vineyards. Our lunch stop at an aire gave us a chance to finish the solid block of butter we’d bought on arrival in France. Without a fridge it had done pretty well, but the final dregs were no match for the sun, so we had to dip our baguette into this liquid gold. We delighted in introducing the kids to a “proper” French public toilet (a ceramic-topped hole in the ground) before we hit the autoroute.


We were due to arrive at our gite near Bordeaux at 1630 based on the satnav (we’d said 1700 just to be on the safe side), but it soon became apparent as we hit traffic that this might not happen. The only comfort we took was that all southbound traffic on this first Saturday in August was affected (we see you Daz, likely born in 1963 with your Aston Martin DB11 and personalised numberplate). As we crawled through the toll gate with an ever lengthening ETA, there was one question on our mind. Would our French vocabulary run out of ways of explaining the traffic before the patience of our gite hosts ran out?


To be continued…
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